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Founded in 1906 in Idar-Oberstein — the town that lives off stone. Today Ernst Stein designs and supplies jewellery for the specialist trade across Europe: gold and silver with diamonds, coloured gemstones and pearls, plus signet rings with traditional engraving from Idar-Oberstein.Founded in 1906 in Idar-Oberstein — the town that lives off stone. Today Ernst Stein designs and supplies jewellery for the specialist trade: gold and silver with gemstones and pearls, plus signet rings with traditional engraving from Idar-Oberstein.
1906
Foundation in Oberstein
In 1906 Ernst Stein founds his own business in Oberstein on the Nahe. The commercial register has carried the company since 18 May. Oberstein and neighbouring Idar are then among Germany's four major jewellery centres, alongside Pforzheim, Hanau and Schwäbisch Gmünd: the metalworking firms for bijouterie in Oberstein, the gemstone cutters in Idar. The young company makes cufflinks, collar studs and bijouterie and is at the Leipzig Trade Fair twice a year from the outset, spring and autumn. That rhythm becomes the constant of the decades to come.In 1906 Ernst Stein founds his own business in Oberstein on the Nahe. The commercial register has carried the company since 18 May. Oberstein is then among Germany's four major jewellery centres. The young company makes cufflinks, collar studs and bijouterie and is at the Leipzig Trade Fair twice a year. That rhythm becomes the constant of the decades to come.
Oberstein around 1900, a few years before the founding.More from the chronicle+
Oberstein's jewellery industry has always been run on tight commercial lines: its own costing, its own dispatch, a well-developed field sales force. And an unwritten law of the place: what had been ordered was accepted, even when the house's own order had been cancelled. Reliability was the basis of business here long before it was written into contracts.
The company name “Ernst Stein Wilh. Sohn” is a patronymic: Ernst Stein, Wilhelm's son. In the 1930s the firm exhibits in the Leipzig trade fair building Specks Hof, the house for leather goods, fancy goods and jewellery — in 1936 for the 60th time.
Oberstein's jewellery industry has always been run on tight commercial lines: its own costing, its own dispatch, a well-developed field sales force. And an unwritten law of the place: what had been ordered was accepted. Reliability was the basis of business here long before it was written into contracts.
Agate cutters in Oberstein, wood engraving from the 19th century — the industry the company was founded into.
1914–1918
Eight years after the founding, Ernst Stein goes to the First World War as a German soldier, including to Verdun. He is wounded and decorated.
1932
A new direction in the crisis
Fourteen years later the trade comes to a standstill. The Great Depression hits Oberstein hard, and the years 1929 to 1935 are regarded as its low point. In 1932 Albert Ruppenthal, a gemstone dealer from Mörschied, joins as a partner. Ernst Stein senior hands over to his eighteen-year-old son Fritz, who is specially declared of age for the purpose: a partner at eighteen, in the hardest years the trade has known. The answer is not a round of cuts but a direction. The company gives its range a new bearing, away from the cheapest mass-produced articles, towards jewellery.Fourteen years later the trade comes to a standstill. The Great Depression hits Oberstein hard, 1929 to 1935 are regarded as its low point. In 1932 Albert Ruppenthal, a gemstone dealer from Mörschied, joins as a partner, and Ernst Stein senior hands over to his eighteen-year-old son Fritz. The answer is not a round of cuts but a direction: away from the cheapest mass-produced articles, towards jewellery.
Cufflink parts, button stones and hair jewellery from Idar-Oberstein — the world of goods out of which the company grew into jewellery.More from the chronicle+
Two decisions lie behind it: the range moves upmarket and the simplest mass-produced articles drop out of it. And it is extended in the direction of jewellery. Under the new partners the company trades as “Ernst Stein Wilh. Sohn Nachf.”
It pays off. Customers include the great department stores of the day, among them Wertheim and Hermann Tietz, as well as the leading wholesalers in Frankfurt, Berlin and Pforzheim. The business rests on the Leipzig fair and on constant travelling through Germany and the Netherlands. The rhythm is demanding: roughly every six months a new collection, each one with tooling of its own. The company is based at Hauptstraße 297 in Oberstein.
The range moves upmarket. Customers include the great department stores of the day and the leading wholesalers in Frankfurt, Berlin and Pforzheim. The rhythm is demanding: roughly every six months a new collection, each one with tooling of its own. It is based at Hauptstraße 297.
1936–1945
Persecution
Ernst Stein was a Jewish company. In 1936 Fritz Stein's departure for England is arranged. In December 1937 the Idar-Oberstein police office records his deregistration to London. In 1938 an “Aryan partner” is forced upon the company, and in 1939 it is closed down. The imposed partner leaves again afterwards. Ernst Stein senior, a front-line veteran of the First World War, wounded and decorated, remained in Oberstein. On 30 April 1942 he was deported from Koblenz. He was declared dead.
We record this here because it is part of the history of this name.
More from the chronicle+
To the Nazi bureaucracy the company counted as “half-Aryan”. Jews were not permitted to work for “Aryan” firms — under this classification, Jewish employees remained in the business. At the outbreak of war in 1939, every business in the Idar-Oberstein gemstone and jewellery industry not producing for the war effort is shut down. Ernst Stein Wilh. Sohn is closed immediately.
Fritz Stein travels to England via Amsterdam with a sample collection. The collection stays behind in the left-luggage office of Amsterdam station.
To the Nazi bureaucracy the company counted as “half-Aryan”. Jews were not permitted to work for “Aryan” firms — under this classification, Jewish employees remained in the business. Fritz Stein travels to England via Amsterdam with a sample collection.
1945–1953
For nine years the company lies dormant. The building at Hauptstraße 297 is returned to Fritz Stein. In England he has become a first-class specialist in costume jewellery and is soon importing large quantities of Oberstein goods into Britain again.For nine years the company lies dormant. The building at Hauptstraße 297 is returned to Fritz Stein. In England he has become a first-class specialist in costume jewellery.
1954
A new beginning in partnership
Fritz Stein survived exile. In 1954 he and Paul Ruppenthal bring the dormant company back to life, each taking a half share. They begin small, with two employees, but with a clear goal: silver jewellery and gold bijouterie. Leipzig falls away as a fair venue and Frankfurt becomes the new one: in 1955 Ernst Stein shows goods of its own there again. The rhythm of two fairs a year is back.Fritz Stein survived exile. In 1954 he and Paul Ruppenthal bring the dormant company back to life, each taking a half share. They begin small, with two employees, but with a clear goal: silver jewellery and gold bijouterie. The rhythm of two fairs a year is back.
More from the chronicle+
The beginning is made with costume jewellery — the base from which the range moves steadily upmarket: silver jewellery first, then gold bijouterie.
In 1955 Ernst Stein exhibits in Frankfurt together with A. Ruppenthal on one stand — stones and jewellery from a single source. The customer base is rebuilt, largely with customers new to the company.
1954–1985
Rebuilding
Over three decades Ernst Stein grows back into a solid house of the jewellery trade. In 1985 Fritz Stein retires on grounds of age and in friendship, after more than fifty years with the company. With him, the Stein family's involvement comes to an end.
Company entry with the old name and the addition “Moderne Schmuckwaren” — one of the few contemporary printed records.More from the chronicle+
During this period the company trades with the addition “Moderne Schmuckwaren” (modern jewellery). From 1955 the range shifts systematically from costume jewellery to silver jewellery and gold bijouterie — the line that still defines the company today.
In the 1960s the range is presented in a showroom of its own for the first time, instead of out of a sample case. From this grow the exhibition rooms that trade customers still visit daily today. Fritz Stein remains in London, where he runs his own business. Responsibility on the ground lies with Paul Ruppenthal.
The company trades with the addition “Moderne Schmuckwaren”. In the 1960s the range is presented in a showroom of its own for the first time. This develops into exhibition rooms for trade customers.
1982
Independent within the group
The name remains. Since 1982 Ernst Stein has belonged to A. Ruppenthal KG, the Idar-Oberstein gemstone house. Its range, its design and its name remain its own, and that has not changed to this day.
Engraved coats of arms and monograms from Idar-Oberstein — the engraving craft that Ernst Stein continues to this day.Today
Mainzer Straße 104
Since 2010 Ernst Stein has been based at Mainzer Straße 104, where it all began in 1906. The addresses changed over the decades, the district never did: Hauptstraße 297, later Hauptstraße 179, then Mainzer Straße 150. In 2020 the sole proprietorship became Ernst Stein KG, run by the sixth generation. The range runs from 585 and 750 gold through sterling silver and gold-plated silver to stainless steel and titanium, set with diamonds, coloured gemstones and pearls. Plus signet rings with coat-of-arms and monogram engraving, traditionally done by hand in Idar-Oberstein. It supplies the specialist trade exclusively: through the B2B shop, the field sales team, the sales offices and the showroom at head office. Cufflinks and two fairs a year have become a range for the retailer's display case.Since 2010 Ernst Stein has been based at Mainzer Straße 104, where it all began in 1906. The range runs from 585 and 750 gold through sterling silver and gold-plated silver to stainless steel and titanium, set with diamonds, coloured gemstones and pearls. Plus signet rings with traditional engraving from Idar-Oberstein. Cufflinks and two fairs a year have become a range for the retailer's display case.
Signet rings today: coat-of-arms and monogram engraving in gold and silver, traditionally done by hand in Idar-Oberstein.
120 years in Idar-Oberstein
What began in 1906, we design today for the specialist trade.
Range, selections on approval and terms for retailers — in the shop or in conversation with our field sales team.Range, selections on approval and terms for retailers.
